Saturday, May 5, 2012

Cycling - P'Tit Train du Nord

The P'Tit Train du Nord, just west of St. Faustin
One of the jewels of the Laurentians is the P'Tit Train du Nord, a former railway track turned into a biking trail.  If you're unfamiliar with the trail, the Globe and Mail did a nice piece on it this week, complete with pictures and a first-hand account of the experience, including overnight stays and trail-side dining. The article was a fitting tribute to this magnificent trail...here's what I'd add:

First, some history.  The railway was built over a period of nearly twenty years, starting in the 1890's.  The P'Tit Train snaked its way through the mountains and gave rise to the many Laurentian villages along the way, bringing tourists north for skiing and fresh air.  As motor vehicles became more common and roads improved, the need for the train diminished and eventually ceased operation in the 1980's.  But the smooth, levelled train tracks (once removed) gave way to a perfect cycling surface, now known as the linear park that bears the name of the original railway.

The P'Tit Train du Nord runs 230 km from St. Jerome (just north of Montreal) to Mont Laurier.  The scenery is idyllic, passing lakes, mountains, pastures, green valleys and deep wooded ravines.  And because this was once a railway, you pass many historic train stations along the way.  Many towns have restaurants where summer patios flourish and cyclists can take a little breather and enjoy some lunch before they resume their journey.  Complete details on the trail and the nearby towns and amenities are available on the official P'Tit Train du Nord website

While cycling is the main attraction, there is also cross-country skiing available in the winter.  The trails are beautifully groomed for both classic and skate-style skiing.  Just another reason why the Laurentians are a year-round paradise for those who love the outdoors!

August 2013 update
We decided to ride the P'tit Train up to Labelle.  We had ridden a section of this with some friends a year ago, but we only proceeded about 30 minutes down the path.  This time we made it to Labelle, about a 75-minute trip starting from Old Tremblant.  If you're just visiting the area, this is a perfect place for you to start for several reasons:
  1. Old Tremblant is just a few minutes away from the main resort area by car
  2. You can rent bikes from Cybercycle, which is a half block from the P'tit Train
  3. When you return, you can have a pint at the historic Au Coin pub!
This section of the trail follows the north shore of Lac Mercier, and turns north through some beautiful farm country.  As with most of the P'tit Train, the route is quite flat with only the most gentle of inclines, so don't worry if you're not in the greatest shape.  When you arrive at La Belle, you'll see the old train station, which has now been turned into La Gare, an inn/restaurant/bar.  It looked very appealing, although the day we were there the patio was overrun with cyclists and their kids, so we instead meandered off the path to the Kayak Cafe, a hidden jewel in Labelle with an amazing patio overlooking the Riviere Rouge.  This is where we did a couple of river kayaking excursions, which we also highly recommend!

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